Riding a BMX is a thrilling and adventurous experience whether you're riding it on the streets or go for a more thrilling experience in the mountains.
This bike isn't like the others and is not made for cycling from A to B but rather for challenging your limits. However, this bike comes with certain parts. One of them is the hubs which are the central part of the bike's wheels (both back and front). The hubs connect to the wheel's rim through the spokes (this is where the axle is fitted) allowing the wheel to spin freely. So, if you're about to replace your hubs, especially if you're looking for BMX race hubs, here are some important things to consider before buying.
How to Choose a Hub
Hubs should be matched to the front and rear part of your bike. It doesn't matter if you're buying a new set of wheel or replacing the old hubs. What's important is to determine the right hub for your needs. The rear hubs feature a broad mounting platform for the cassette, and every rear hub is made to match a certain class of cassettes. Hubs are usually 100mm wide in the front and 130mm wide in the rear for road bike frames. Mountain bikers mainly use 135-142mm front and rear hubs to provide space for disc brakes, which need more material on the exterior edge of the hub for mounting the disc. Be sure that the hub matches your frame and fork width and your brake type and cassette preference.
Consider Pricing and Features
Like everything in life, your budget will determine the type of things you'll get. The same goes for your BMX race hubs. Hubs have various prices and have various features. Even the most basic hubs will give you suitable rolling speed and low friction for great performance. However, the higher-end models can be a bit confusing. You probably wonder what you get for the price you pay. At the beginning you should be sure to have the information you need - what type of cassette you will use, the width of the frame and fork, several spokes you will be mounting, and if you will need the ability to mount disc brakes. Basic hubs are constructed of steel and aluminium alloys and give a good typical performance. They cost around $20-$30 and go up to about $100. If you're going for pricier hubs for road and mountain bikes, they will cost more. These are lighter and made of stronger materials like top-quality aluminium that reduce weight and give increased strength. They also use higher-quality steel or ceramic frames which give less rolling resistance and a smoother ride. These generally cost in the range of $200-$400. There are specialty rear hubs that give the ability to measure power output, cadence, speed, distance, ride time, but these are $1000 and up.
Front and Rear Hubs
Front hubs have a tubular body with a set of bearings at every end, loose ball bearings inserted into a bearing race and settled with locknuts.
The wheel axle is threatening through the body and spinning on these bearings. The axle might be secured to the fork or frame by using bolts or quick-release clamps, depending on the bike and hub type. The hub features a raised lip at either end which is pierced with holes for the spokes (the number of holes depends on the wheel type). Mountbikes and road hubs have disc mounts for disc brake rotors. BMX rear hubs have a freewheel on the drive side of the hub. This is a splined metal tube where you slide the cassette or sprocket; it contains the spring-loaded pawls responsible for making the clicking sound when you're coasting on the bike.
How to Maintain BMX Hubs
One of the main problems with hubs is the one that comes with the bearings. The seals that keep water and grit out of the ball bearings can break down, and the wheels will lose some of the smoothness that allows them to rotate freely. If your hubs have open bearings, you can disassemble the mechanism, clean the bearings and housing, and re-seal the hub again. Many modern hubs have self-contained cartridge bearings that cannot be repaired or cleaned. These confer a longer lifespan, better performance, and are cheaper, but they must be discarded and replaced when they do wear out. Cartridge bearings are dominant on the market and are used by those who want the greatest speed and convenience. Many older bikes use the user-serviceable "cup and cone" bearing.
